Quick Answer: This strawberry pig crochet pattern makes a small amigurumi pig wearing a red strawberry-shaped hood with green sepals at the front, worked in worsted weight yarn with a 4mm hook using continuous rounds. The pig body and the strawberry hood are made as two separate pieces, then joined, and the finished piece stands roughly 4 inches tall.
| Difficulty | Beginner to intermediate |
|---|---|
| Time | 2.5 to 3.5 hours |
| Finished Size | Approx. 4 in tall (assuming worsted weight yarn and 4mm hook, unconfirmed by user) |
| Hook | 4mm / US G-6 |
| Yarn Weight | Worsted / #4 (assumption, adjust if yours differs) |
A Pig in a Strawberry Costume, Because Amigurumi Doesn't Need a Reason
There's a specific kind of amigurumi that works purely because the combination doesn't make sense, and a pig wearing a strawberry hood is exactly that. The pink snout stays visible under the red hood, the little green sepals sit right at the pig's forehead like a stem crown, and somehow the whole thing reads as more strawberry than pig at first glance.
This one is friendlier for a first amigurumi project than most animal patterns, mostly because the strawberry hood hides a lot of the shaping work. If your pig's head comes out slightly uneven, the hood covers most of it anyway.
As with most patterns shared without a specific yarn or hook already picked out, everything here assumes worsted weight #4 yarn and a 4mm hook, the standard pairing for amigurumi at this scale. Swatch first if your materials differ, since the hood needs to sit snugly over the head to look right.
Materials Used
- Yarn: Worsted weight / #4, approx. 20 to 25g in pink (pig body), 15 to 20g in red (strawberry hood), small amount of green (sepals) — yardage approximate, not user-confirmed
- Hook: 4mm / US G-6
- Notions: yarn needle, stitch marker, polyester fiberfill, small amount of black yarn or 5mm safety eyes, scissors
Abbreviations Used
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sc | single crochet |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| inc | increase (2 sc in same stitch) |
| dec | invisible decrease |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
How It's Made (Construction Overview)
The pig's body and head are worked as one continuous piece in a spiral, bottom-up, with no joining between rounds, which is standard for amigurumi and avoids a visible seam line down the front. The strawberry hood is crocheted separately as its own small dome, worked top-down from the point, then fitted over the finished pig's head and tacked in place, with the green sepals stitched on last around the front edge.
Steps
- Body: ch 2, work 6 sc into second ch from hook. Do not join, place marker at start of round.
- Rnd 2: inc in each st around (12 sts).
- Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around (18 sts).
- Rnd 4: (sc2, inc) around (24 sts).
- Rnds 5 to 8: sc even around (24 sts each round).
- Rnd 9: (sc2, dec) around (18 sts). Begin stuffing loosely.
- Rnd 10: (sc1, dec) around (12 sts).
- Rnd 11: dec around (6 sts). Finish stuffing firmly, fasten off, weave tail through remaining sts to close.
- Snout: ch 2, 6 sc into second ch, inc once around (9 sts), sc even for 1 round, fasten off leaving a long tail. Stuff lightly and stitch onto the lower face.
- Ears: ch 2, 5 sc into second ch, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Make 2, flatten slightly, and stitch to the sides of the head.
- Strawberry hood: in red, ch 2, 6 sc into second ch from hook. inc each round until the hood measures wide enough to sit over the pig's head opening (usually 4 to 5 rounds), then sc even for 2 to 3 rounds to build hood depth. Fasten off.
- Sepals: in green, ch 6, sl st into second ch from hook and down the chain to form a point. Repeat to make 5 to 6 small points, join at the base into a star shape, and stitch to the front rim of the hood.
- Assembly: place the finished hood over the pig's head so the snout and ears remain visible, tack the hood edge down at a few points, then attach the sepal star to the front center of the hood.
Tips
- Attach the ears before the hood, not after. It's much easier to space them evenly on a bare head than to work around fabric that's already covering it.
- Make the hood slightly looser than you think it needs to be. A too-tight hood will squeeze the head into an odd shape once it's on.
- Stitch the snout on with the eyes already placed, since the snout's position shifts where the whole face reads as centered or off.
Common Mistakes
- Hood coming out too shallow, which leaves the top of the pig's head poking out instead of a snug fit. Add an extra round before fastening off if that happens on your first try.
- Sepal points curling instead of lying flat. This is usually from working the chain-and-slip-stitch points too tightly, loosen your tension slightly on that section.
- Losing stitch count on the increase rounds of the body, which throws off the head-to-body proportion. Count stitches at the end of every round while shaping.
Variations
- Swap the strawberry hood for a different fruit shape, like an orange hood with a small green stem, using the same construction.
- Use a mottled or speckled pink yarn for the body to give the pig a slightly more textured, less uniform look.
- Size up with bulky yarn and a 5.5mm hook for a larger huggable version.
FAQ
Do I need to make the pig's body before the hood?
Yes. The hood is fitted to the finished head size, so making the body and ears first gives you something accurate to size the hood against.
Can I skip the snout and just embroider a pig nose?
Yes, a two-dot embroidered nose works fine as a simpler alternative to a stuffed snout piece.
Why does my hood look too pointed at the top?
That usually means the first increase round was skipped or worked too tightly. The point should round out by round 3 or 4.
What yarn works best for the sepals?
Any leftover green worsted weight yarn is fine, this part uses very little and doesn't need to match a specific dye lot.
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